Climbing on Mottarone

Climbing on Mottarone – If you’re a climbing enthusiast or simply looking for an active way to experience nature, Mount Mottarone is your mountain. Often celebrated for its breathtaking views of the seven lakes, this granite giant (1,491 m) is actually one of Piedmont’s best-kept secrets for sport climbing. Perched between Lake Orta and Lake Maggiore, Mottarone offers rock quality and a variety of routes that rival even the most famous Alpine destinations.

The Pink Granite of Baveno

The Mottarone crag’s fame is linked to its extraordinary pink granite, a stone renowned for its consistency and beauty. Unlike traditional limestone slabs, climbing here is predominantly friction-based, with thin cracks and pockets that require technique and excellent footwork. Don’t worry, though: there’s a wide variety of climbing styles. From the most vertical and technical sectors to the nearly 100-meter multi-pitch routes in the “Aquila Pera” sector, to the athletic overhangs for the more experienced.

Sectors and Difficulties for Everyone

With over 77 equipped routes (and growing), the crag is a concentration of fun for all levels of difficulty.

Beginners and families: The Balena Bassa and Balena Alta sectors are the ideal starting point. Here you’ll find short, well-protected pitches with difficulties starting at 3a/3b. It’s the perfect place to become familiar with granite.

Amateurs and Specialists: For those seeking more thrills, the “Placche Mario Bonanno” and “Gufo” sectors offer challenging grades up to 7b. Fans of multi-pitch routes shouldn’t miss the Pera/Aquila sector, where you can link together pitches up to 90 meters long.

How to Get There and Where to Find the Climbing Crags on Mottarone

From the Lake Orta side, access is simple and scenic. Start from Armeno and follow the panoramic “Due Riviere” road that climbs to the summit of Mottarone. Once you reach the indicated parking areas (Sass Buticc area), the CAI trails are well signposted. At the entrance, you’ll find a noticeboard with an updated sector map and route summary tables.

Practical Tips:

Equipment: Standard climbing kit (helmet required). The routes are equipped with stainless steel bolts and chains for belays.

Recommended Time: Thanks to its southwest exposure, the face enjoys sun for most of the day. Spring and autumn are ideal, but the altitude (about 1,400 meters) makes climbing pleasant even on hot summer days.

After the climb: Don’t miss the panoramic view from the summit, where you can admire seven lakes, including the magical outline of Lake Orta and the Island of San Giulio.

Mottarone isn’t just a ski resort or a scenic overlook: it’s an open-air gym just waiting to be climbed. Get your friends and climbing shoes ready, the granite awaits! Climbing on Mottarone